Buying a new car is one of the fun things. Especially if the moment is the peak of the struggle of sorting out options and of course saving money after a long time. I’ve never really bought a new car. But just buying a used car is already happy especially a new car hehe.
After having the new ‘baby’, we usually like to want to take a walk quickly . The initial moment of the introduction was indeed a beautiful time.
But we must be careful, because even though a new car is a gress tingting car but there are things we should avoid in the initial phase of using this new car.
This is closely related, especially to break-in or inreyen.
Let’s just start the review this time.
Is it Break-in or Inreyen?
Break-in is the process of adjusting between the components on a new engine in the initial period of the engine starting to actively operate. The main focus on the break-in process mainly lies in the initial interaction of the piston ring with the cylinder wall. At the time of the initial interaction the component adaptation process will occur which then becomes a fixed thing (settle) for the life of the machine. This process usually takes place in the first 500-1000 km range of cars.
The term break-in is also known by the name Inreyen from Dutch (Inrijden), or sometimes also called run-in or running-in .
The result of a perfect break-in is believed to make the car especially the engine become more durable and maintained its performance for a long time.
Many people argue that this break-in process need not be a problem. This is due to technological advances that make machine components more precise with each other so that break-ins are not required.
Nevertheless, some car manufacturers still recommend the break-in process in their car’s manual book. Others said they had done a break-in process at the factory but still signaled consumers to continue the break-in process until the initial 1000 km. There are also car manufacturers who have made a total break-in when at the factory so that the car can be directly used speeding or taken to the circuit, such as the Acura NSX.
How to do a break-in
We enter the controversial part of this review. How to do a break-in.
There are two contradictory ways in which to do a break-in. Both have their fans or adherents. The two ways are soft break-in and hard break-in.
Please note that the results of these two methods are not contradictory. In other words, it doesn’t mean that one way will make a machine good while the other way makes a machine bad. But the difference between the two is more to the difference between a good engine and a TOP machine.
This method is the method recommended by car manufacturers. As the name implies, soft break-in is a break-in by treating the machine gently. Sort of leading the baby who is just learning to walk, all slowly and full of tenderness haha.
Even car manufacturers for sports cars also advocate this method. Call it on the Nissan GTR and Chevrolet Corvette. Both of these cars are advised to break in slowly and avoid excessive strain on the engine and other car components.
Here are some provisions for soft break-ins.
- Do not exceed speeds above 120 km / hour.
- Do not exceed RPM above 4000 RPM.
- Play the accelerator. Do not drive the car at the same speed / constant. Drive cars with different speeds with the acceleration range at 50-80 km / hour.
- Not immediately spur quickly (full throttle) when a new car starts.
- Does not carry heavy loads. Cars with heavy loads require extra power, which means we will press the gas pedal deeper.
- Avoid sudden braking.
- It is recommended to change oil in the first 30-40 km and of course change oil again in the first 1000 km.
In contrast to soft break-ins, this method is done by speeding up the car.
Run it hard!
Adherents of this method believe that a soft break-in does not seal or close the piston ring completely. With a large pressure or load then the piston ring can be closed completely.
Then why do manufacturers recommend soft break-ins?
According to them, through soft-breaks in the car manufacturer avoids claims during the car warranty period. If the consumer drives the car slowly or gently, of course the possibility of warranty claims will be reduced.
This method is also known as the Motoman’s way or Motoman’s method because this method has become increasingly popular since a website called Mototuneusa wrote this ‘secret’ hard break-in. Besides well-known sites such as popularmechanics and enginebasics also hinted to not over-indulge the engine at the time of the break-in.
Here are some conditions for a hard break-in.
- Drive the engine fast (full throttle) to the limit of RPM in gears 2, 3, and 4.
- Do not drive the vehicle too long at high RPM. However, cross acceleration with deceleration (decelaration).
- Not immediately spur quickly when a new car starts. Don’t do a hard break-in on a cold machine.
- Do not drive the car at the same speed / constant for too long. Play the accelerator.
- Avoid sudden braking.
- It is advisable to change oil in the first 30 km and of course change oil again in the first 1000 km.
We can clearly see the difference between soft break-n and hard break-in. When asked which I prefer, I prefer the combination of the two. Don’t abuse the engine, but don’t baby it either . Don’t over-push the new engine but don’t spoil it too much.